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The Review - RESTAURANT REVIEW By TATIANA VON SAXE
 

From left, Romain Anquetil, commis waiter, Karine Rodier, head receptionist and Gaelle Poirson, chef de rang

Brasserie lives up to its claim

BRASSERIE Roux is situated hidden in the corner of Pall Mall and Waterloo Place, housed in the impressive building now occupied by the Sofitel Hotel.
I suggest you enter through the main entrance of the hotel on Waterloo Place so that you can enjoy the wonderful arrangements of fresh flowers in its lobby.
Turn right and you will see the side entrance to the brasserie. I recommend table 27 if there are two or three of you or you could even squeeze four around it as this is a table that affords the best outlook of the whole restaurant.
Three huge upside down lamp shades hanging from the ceiling look medium size in this elongated large room. The exhibition kitchen is next to the reception desk which is positioned near the Pall Mall entrance through elegant dark wood carved doors.
The tables are heavily lacquered with special acrylic treatment and seem to withstand anything placed on them. Therefore no mats or tablecloths are necessary. A square dish with condiments and a tiny candle complete the table settings.
Poultry pictures and ornamental sculptures are everywhere.
From beginning to end the service was remarkably good. Everyone was professional and helpful. Brasserie Roux claim to be a “home away from home” as the “genuine true French brasserie” in London.
We chose from the dishes of the day and à la carte menu. The soup a cream of lentils and spicy sausage at £6 was delicious. The watercress and endive salad with fresh pear and Gorgonzola was excellent both in presentation and taste (£7.50). To follow we ordered the Pot au feu a l’ancienne, “sauce Albert” (£14.50) and since this is a classic brasserie dish it was meant to test Roux’s claim of a “true brasserie”. They passed with flying colours. It was simply superb. The canette rotie served with an olive sauce, sautéed potatoes and baby Brussels sprouts was very good although it was pink despite our request for it to be well done.
Sometimes the floor staff assume that if the meat is “baked” it will be well done as opposed to “grilled” when the customer can choose how it should be done.
My friend, a wine expert, introduced me to Viognter 2004 (£25) — this grape provides a crisp dry delicious wine.
The cheese at £8 consisted of an assortment of several thin slices served with bread and a bunch of dark grapes. We shared the cheese and had a glass each of Valmoissine (£7).
Brasserie Roux offer a Special Sunday menu for lunch or dinner at 24.50. On Sunday March 12 it will be from the Bourgogne region and on March 19 from Savoie and Dauphine.
The price includes a three-course menu and two glasses of selected wine.
Our bill came to £102.04 inclusive of 12.5 per cent service but the credit card receipt had not been closed.

Brasserie Roux                                          Click here to book restaurants
Sofitel,
6 Waterloo Place SW1                              click here to go to Restaurant home page
Tel: 020 7968 2900

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