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The Review - FOOD AND DRINK - Cooking with CLARE
Published: 1 October 2009
 
Porter gives a fuller flavour to a range of dishes
Porter gives a fuller flavour to a range of dishes
The autumn night porter

With cosy evenings just around the corner, Clare Latimer conjures up a couple of stout recipes to warm the senses

I went to the Sandringham Show in Norfolk a few weeks ago and came across a company called Grain who brew the most fabulous beers.
They gave me a sample of each and as I weaved away I decided I should share this treat with you.
They opened the brewery in the summer of 2006, driven by a love of great beers, a distaste for big business, a desire for a fresh start and an “unhealthy dose of insanity.”
Grain is tucked up in the Waveney Valley of South Norfolk, an area characterised by its vibrant yet tranquil river and its mile upon mile of stunning views across some of the richest farm land in England. It is in one of these farms that they found the perfect location for their ­brewery.
South Farm in Alburgh has been owned and operated by the Bond family for three generations, and it is their old dairy that they have converted to open the brew house and ­cellars.
They have got a Hop Harvest Beer Festival on Saturday with live bands, local food and all the beer that you want to drink.
They have even made a special version using fresh hops instead of the usual dry ones. What could be better than driving to this “hop spot” on a beautiful autumn day and joining in the fun?
On their website www.grainbrewery.co.uk you can find directions and also places to stay nearby so you could make an action-packed weekend. The one I thought looked the best was The Old Rectory Bed and Breakfast ­costing £35 per night so if you do go then let me know!
If you decide that Norfolk is too far then they are at the Farmer’s Market at Alexandra Palace most Sundays but check on their website to make sure.
With autumn firmly on our heels here are two recipes that fit the picture to perfection.
The first was suggested by Geoff Bond and the second I have just made up, so see what you think.

Venison casserole
You could use beef or even oxtail if you prefer and any dark stout would do but the beer mentioned just has a ­truly nutty flavour. I would serve this with a fluffy mashed potato and a green vegetable. It freezes well.

Ingredients
Serves 6-8


1 kilo venison meat, cut up into mouth-size pieces
1 tbsp white flour
1 tbsp olive oil
1 large onion, peeled and chopped
5 garlic cloves, peeled and chopped
2 carrots, peeled and sliced
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 teasp oregano
1 teasp thyme
Few sage leaves
12 stoned prunes
1 x 500ml bottle Grain Porter beer

Method
Preheat the oven 150C/ 300F/gas 2.
Put the ­venison meat and the flour into a large plastic bag – with no holes! – and shake well to coat the meat.
Put the onion, garlic and olive oil into a
large heavy-based casserole dish and cook ­gently for about three minutes to soften the onion.
Add the floured ­venison and brown well on all sides stirring most of the time.
Add the carrots, salt, pepper, oregano, thyme and the sage leaves and stir well.
Add the prunes and finally the beer.
Stir gently and then cover and place in the oven.
Cook for three hours stirring approximately every hour.
If you wish to reduce the liquid then remove the lid for the final half an hour.
Serve hot.

Grain Porter zabaglione
The traditional zabaglione is made with Marsala but I have always preferred using whisky.
I thought I would give this a try and it turned out very well.
What a great pudding for St Patrick’s Day when it comes round but in the meant time we can practise.

Ingredients
Serves 2

2 egg yolks
2 desp soft dark brown sugar
2 tbsp Grain Porter beer

Method
Part fill a small sauce­pan with water and bring to the boil. Put the egg yolks and the sugar into a bowl and stand in the water. Using an electric hand beater whisk the egg yolk mixture for about two minutes or until very light, fluffy and foamy. (The heat of the water will gently cook the egg.) Add the beer slowly and whisk until all the beer is added. You cannot over beat so make sure the mixture is really fluffy and warm.
Pour into glasses; serve immediately.

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