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The Review - FOOD AND DRINK - RESTAURANTS
Published: 23 April 2009
 
Numan Devrim (centre) with Al Parco staff
Numan Devrim (centre) with Al Parco staff
Perfect pizza on Parkway

Goodfare’s Numan Devrim is hoping to wow Camden’s stars with his new restaurant, writes Peter Gruner

IT has been part of the rich social life and history of Camden Town for more than half a century, and now Goodfare in Parkway has expanded its gastronomic horizons.

The famous restaurant – with regular customers including singer Amy Winehouse, writers AN Wilson, Alan Bennett and Beryl Bainbridge, and newscaster Trevor MacDonald, to name but a few – has acquired the former camera shop next door for a new pizzeria.
The new venue, Al Parco, which includes a bar, is aimed at the discerning pizza customer. With its funky interior it complements the traditional restaurant next door, established by an Italian family in 1958.
Owner Numan Devrim, 38, says he launched the pizza bar because it was what his customers wanted. He already has another successful Al Parco at 2 Highgate West Hill.
Numan, who obtained Goodfare in 2005 from the original family, said he always likes to listen to his customers as they know what they like.
“When I took over Goodfare the regular customers pleaded with me not to change it,” he says. “They said it had been a wonderful social institution for many, many years. Well, I did change it slightly – but only for the better. It was mainly a sandwich and soup bar when I arrived. I expanded the restaurant and introduced an alcohol licence and a lot more variety of dishes.”
Amy Winehouse is said to have enjoyed her Goodfare pasta, and AN Wilson and Beryl Bainbridge have both been seen tucking into an morning fry-up.
Numan has employed more staff for the new venue and kept the popular head chef, Rafaelle, who has worked at Goodfare for 46 years.
Goodfare can accommodate 70 diners and is open from 8am to 11.30 pm. Al Parco seats up to 50 diners and is open from 11am to 11pm.
“Customers who came when they were kids now bring their own children to the restaurant,” says Numan. “We serve up to 700 meals a day.”
The two venues are currently separate, but there are plans to combine the two operations.
“You won’t get a ­finer pizza,” Numan adds. “We use all fresh ingredients and dough and make them on the premises. The chef goes to market several mornings a week at 2am to look for the best ­produce.”
My colleague and I enjoyed a perfect Vegetariana pizza with artichokes, mushroom, olives, asparagus, baby spinach and courgettes (£6.95). We also shared an Insalata Al Parco with a selection of leaves, peppers, spinach, courgettes, artichokes, tomatoes, olives, and mozzarella, served with garlic bread, also £6.95. I had a fresh mint tea (£1.50) and she a glass of fine Italian house white wine (£2.95).

Al Parco bar and pizzeria (next door to Goodfare) 28, Parkway, Camden Town, NW1.
020 7209 8887

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