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The Review - FOOD AND DRINK - Cooking with CLARE
Published: 23 October 2008
 
Supper date in historic style
Supper date in historic style

Clare Latimer dines out and ‘messes’ with the best as she uncovers a quality culinary secret at Burgh House

The best kept secret is now out. Many of you will have heard of Burgh House, the stunning Queen Anne house in New End Square, but how many of you know that apart from it giving a superb in-depth history of Hampstead and showing local artists’ work it is also one of the best places to eat in Hampstead for quality and value.

While waiting for my friend to join me I sat with Tim Piggott Smith, Bill Oddie and Jim Broadbent – OK, a slight exaggeration. But their names were printed beside me as they are all coming to give a Lifeline talk in the next few weeks and you bet I will try to be there paying £18 for the talk with supper and wine thrown in. Booking essential.
Liam Farrell and Fiona Barber have just moved in and not only have they revamped the whole café but they have concocted a new-style menu. It’s still in character with the surroundings and main courses are well under £10. Where else can you get a cream tea with homemade scones, clotted cream, jam and fairtrade tea for £4.50, or an upgrade with champagne and finger sandwiches for £9.50?
They offer a 10 per cent discount loyalty card, waiter service, magazines and weekend papers, a lovely garden on a sunny day (pictured) or the cosy café if it’s raining; they open Tuesday to Sunday from 11am to 5.30pm and serve evening meals till 9pm on Fridays.
What more could we all want, except… let’s try to persuade them to open every evening so that we can have a “locals” eatery. www.burghhouse.org.uk

Salmon and prawn fish cakes with tartare sauce
This makes a lovely lunch dish or starter for the evening. They garnish it with a rocket leaf-based salad to give colour and a peppery flavour.

Ingredients
Serves 4

6 good-quality mashing potatoes, peeled and cut
125g frozen prawns, cooked and shelled
175g wild Scottish salmon fillet (lightly poached and flaked)
Small bunch of fresh chives, chopped
Zest of 1 lemon
1 free-range egg yolk
Touch of double cream
Salt and freshly ground black pepper
Sunflower oil for frying.Coating
Seasoned flour
1 egg, lightly beaten with a drop of milk
Breadcrumbs (I prefer my own, made from slightly stale bread whizzed in a blender).

Method
Boil potatoes in salted water till soft. Cool slightly then mash well. In a large bowl combine all of the above and adjust the seasoning. The mixture should be soft but firm enough to shape.
Place in fridge to chill for about 30 minutes.
Make small round balls about the size of a golf ball and pat gently into cakes. Dust in seasoned flour and dip in egg mixture. Coat well in breadcrumbs. Deep fry in sunflower oil till nicely browned all over and allow to drain before serving. Drain on a good quality kitchen towel.
Serve warm with tartare sauce:
Tartare sauce
1 handful gherkins, finely chopped
1 handful capers, finely chopped
1 desp onion, peeled and finely chopped
2 tbsp mayonnaise
1 teasp Dijon mustard
Salt and pepper
Zest of ½ lemon
Small squirt lemon juice.
Mix all together and chill until ready to serve.

Eton Mess

At Burgh House they mix this “mess” up for each order but if you have guests you could make it up just before they arrive so that all is done and you can relax.

Ingredients
Serves 4

2 meringues, bought or homemade
1 punnet ripe strawberries, tops off and cut up
1 punnet ripe raspberries
10 fl oz double cream, whipped.
Break meringues in a mixing bowl, but not too small. Add the strawberries and fold in the cream.
Spoon onto plates or into glasses and decorate with the raspberries.

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