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The Review - FOOD & DRINK- Cooking with CLARE
Published: 27 March 2008
 
Beef up your ideas about nourishing cuts of meat

Clare Latimer rediscovers an old favourite – oxtail


HAVING just read that Morrison’s have won the supermarket of the year, I decided to call in at the Chalk Farm branch and walk the circuit.
To be honest, I used to loathe going as the store was tatty, the staff indifferent and it was just downright depressing. But now it is better laid out, the staff could not be more helpful and even know where all the items are hiding and everything runs smoothly.
I gather it is all down to the Big Chief, Mark Boland, who took over about a year ago.
I chatted to Jason on the meat counter who was proud to tell me that they are the only supermarket to get whole carcasses into the store which they then butcher on the premises so the meat is packaged on the spot. They will also prepare any cut you need.
I recently mentioned that the Meat and Livestock Commission told me that Morrison’s are the only supermarket to have their own abattoirs and therefore they use the whole animal.
This keeps the price down and also means that you get all the cuts including the oxtail, skirt and kidneys etc.
I then moved on to the fish counter and again the staff were proud to tell me that all their fish was line caught or friendly to the environment and it certainly looked fresh.
The smell of baking then lured me into the corner where I bought a crusty squishy loaf of white bread. I then went home to treat myself to hot buttered toast.
Well done Mark Boland and all your staff!

Oxtail casserole

This is one of my favourite dishes; it’s a shame it is so rarely served.
One of the main tricks is to cook it one day, leave overnight so that the fat settles on the top, remove it when cold and then reheat before eating.
This makes it less rich and also gives time for all the flavours to infuse.
Owing to the cooking time, I usually cook twice as much and then freeze half for another time. Serve with mashed potato.

Ingredients
Serves 6
1 large oxtail, cut into joints
2 flat desp flour, for coating
1 heaped tsp dry ­mustard powder
salt and freshly ground black pepper
1 tbsp oil,
2 large onions, peeled and roughly chopped
2 large carrots, peeled and roughly chopped
2 stalks celery, washed and roughly chopped
4 large cloves garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
50g button mushrooms, washed and quartered
1 desp tomato purée
4 bay leaves
few sprigs thyme
750ml hefty red wine,
A little parsley.

Method
Preheat the oven to 150C /300F/gas 2.
Put the oxtail in a plastic bag with the flour, dry mustard powder salt and black pepper. Twist the top and then shake it gently until the oxtail is covered.
Heat the oil in a large heavy-based casserole. Add the pieces of oxtail and brown on all sides. When brown remove and set aside, then add the onions, carrots and celery and lightly brown.
Add the garlic and the mushrooms.
Add the tomato purée and stir well.
Return the oxtail and any escaped juices to the pan, stick in the bay leaves and thyme and then pour in the red wine. Bring to the boil, and cover with a tight lid.
Cook in the oven for two hours stirring it once half-way through the cooking. Check whether the meat is falling off the bones and if not then cook for a further half to one hour. When cooked, cool removing the lid and then refrigerate, overnight.
The next day, scrape off the fat that has set on the surface, then reheat the casserole slowly either back in a preheated oven or on the top of your cooker, stirring from time to time. Stir in the parsley and serve.

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