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The Review - THE GOOD LIFE
Published: 7 June 2007
 

Nuno Lobo, owner of the Portuguese-owned Wine Cellar on Kentish Town Road which is proving a real hit with customers
Vintage bargains – and the young ones

The neglected Kentish Town Road has been rejuvenated with new stores, including a wine specialist with a cellar full of quality and expertise


A FEW years back, Kentish Town Road seemed to be dying. Deserted by Tescos, the Co-op, Sainsbury’s and Marks and Spencer, it soon lost its butcher shops and greengrocers. Its future appeared certain – it would become a street of charity shops and fast-food restaurants.
The past two years have seen an amazing turnaround in its fortunes.
Tesco has returned, joined by Somerfield and the Co-op – the latter back in the very building it vacated several years before. The fish shop, one of the few retail businesses that survived the exodus, has branched out and sells organic meat
Recently, several good restaurants and an organic food emporium have joined them.
The Blockbuster video store has moved into cyberspace, replaced by the brilliant Phoenicia, part exotic food store, part halal butchers and deli, with a café serving light authentic Mediterranean food.
Across the road is the Portuguese-owned Wine Cellar, a food store and deli with a few tables, where one can sip excellent coffee and munch Panini and other freshly made sandwiches.
Complementing Phoenicia, the Wine Cellar offers more mainstream west European fare, including pork products, hams and wine.
At first glance it is simply a deli with a small wine section. True, there is a sign pointing to the basement, quietly announcing more wines in the cellar. But once downstairs the customer is in for a big surprise.
On display in the large cellar, and bathed in subdued lighting, is the largest range of Portuguese wines in London. And in the centre are several tasting tables and chairs.
Nuno Lobo, from the Island of Madeira, has lived and worked in London since the 1970s.
He took over the shop, complete with the cellar, and an even bigger range of wines, from the previous owner, two years ago.
The first drop we notice is Sir Cliff Richard’s Vida Nova (red) Algarve region 2002, at £6.99.
“Customers always laugh when I mention this wine,” Nuno tells us. “I don’t understand why, but it is very hard to sell.”
Much easier to push is the Sogrape winery’s Grao Vasco 2003 (red), at £5.99, from Dao – Portugal’s top wine region.
Its more refined partner, Grao Vasco 1997 garrafeira, at £7.49 is another worthy buy.
Big with English customers is the Sogrape Planakto, reserva 2005, at £6.99. It’s a favourite of British tourists on holiday in Portugal, Nuno explains – when they return to London they buy it and remember their holiday in the sun.
Also popular is the Alandra (white), at £5.99.
The big sellers are the Terra Franca (red), at £4.99 and its white equivalent at £4.39.
Expensive, but easier to sell then a bottle of Sir Cliff Richard, is the Winho Pera – Manca tinto (red).
“It is the Rolls Royce of Portuguese wines,” says Nuno, excitedly.
“Every bottle is numbered and sold in advance.
“I have only three left and I will drink one of those myself.”
At up to £100 a bottle it is too much for our pocket.
We are about to leave when Nuno points to several rows of wines laid on their side above the counter.
“These are my pride and joy,” he says.
We looked along the rows and saw a Cheval Blanc 1985, then a Chateau Palmer 1986, a Lynch Bages 1982, Haut Brion and Mouton Rothschild, both 1983.
Here were some of Bordeaux’s greatest châteaux wines, on sale beneath a deli in Kentish Town Road.
“Some of these wines will sell for over £300 a bottle,” says Nuno.
“Recently, I sold a bottle of Chateau Petrus for £400.”
Suddenly the Winho Pera Manca at £100 seemed cheap.

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