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The Review - FOOD & DRINK - Cooking with CLARE
Published: 3 May 2007

The gardens at Brobury House

Perfect timing and the art of a good breakfast

Clare Latimer is inspired by a trip to Herefordshire

LAST weekend I went to Herefordshire to see a godchild and found two little gems which I thought I’d share with you in case you’re in that neck of the woods.
We stayed at the family-run Brobury House in Brobury. It has wonderful gardens which are open to the public, and is tucked right into the banks of the Wye River, nestling against the mountains.
They charge £30-£45 per person per night which I thought very good value. You really feel at home – but without the cooking and gardening to worry about.
We staggered out after breakfast in the sunny conservatory and later, after a long walk, stopped to have lunch at the Three Crowns Inn at Ullingswick.
Pubs in England can be a total disaster with appalling ready-cooked meals or they can beat most smart restaurants with lower prices and often a much prettier venue.
The Three Crowns Inn is a cracker. The menu was short but the chef/owner, who began as a junior chef and ended up buying the place with his family, was very proud of his local-grown produce and has stunning talent.
Along with the delicious food they also do bed and breakfast in this idyllic spot.
The pub was double the price of Brobury so look them up on the web and take your choice.

Brobury Breakfast
This meal is like artwork and the timing is crucial So are the ingredients.
I get my sausages, bacon, black pudding and eggs from Barrett’s in England’s Lane, in Hampstead or the Farmers’ Market.
Choose the kind of mushrooms you like best and remember the croissants.

Ingredients
One tbsp sunflower oil
Two top quality sausages
Two-four mushrooms
Four ripe vine tomatoes, halved
Two slices black pudding
Two free range eggs
Two rashers of back bacon.

Method
Serves two
Preheat the oven to low. Put the sunflower oil into a large frying pan and add the unpricked sausages. Fry gently for five minutes, turning them to brown on all sides.
Add the bacon and the black pudding and continue to fry for about two minutes. Turn and repeat. When cooked, put on a plate and keep warm in the oven.
Add the mushrooms and the tomatoes cut-side down. Fry for about three minutes and then turn. Cook for a further few minutes.
While these are cooking, heat some oil in a smaller frying pan and break two eggs into the warmed pan. Fry over a gentle heat (too hot will create tough bubbles round the edge of the egg whites) until they are cooked to how you like them.
Serve immediately with some hot toast.

Grey Mullet Thai Style
Here is my version of the dish I had at the Three Crowns Inn.
I used sea bream so choose a white fish that is available at the fishmongers. I also used smoked garlic from the Farmer’s Market which gave a good flavour. I would serve with a green vegetable and rice, which would soak up the lovely juices.

Ingredients
Little Olive oil
Two portions grey
mullet (or other white fish), filleted
One clove garlic, peeled and thinly sliced
One teasp fresh grated ginger
One stick lemon grass
Sprinkling of mild chilli powder
Juice of one lime
One teasp soy sauce
Salt and freshly ground black pepper.

Method
Serves two
Preheat the oven 200C 400F, gas 6.
Lay out two pieces of foil that will hold the fillets of fish. Rub a little olive oil over the base.
Put the fish fillets on the foil and top each one with the rest of the ingredients.
Wrap them up to make an airtight parcel and carefully place on a baking tray without puncturing the foil.
Put in the oven for about 20 minutes or until the fish is cooked. It will steam and show fish juices when it’s done.
Unwrap the parcels and serve.

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