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West End Extra - by JAMIE WELHAM
Published: 25 September 2009
 
Osteria dell’angolo restaurant in Marsham Street
Osteria dell’angolo restaurant in Marsham Street
Waiter, take this away – there’s a spy in my soup!

Writer criticises restaurant over its CCTV cameras

THERE are lots of reasons to stomp out of a restaurant: shoddy service, surly waiters and underwhelming food to name but a few.
Now, thanks to Observer columnist and author Henry Porter, foodies can seize on a more unusual gripe: silver service surveillance – or as Mr Porter put it, “waiter, the Stasi’s in my soup!”. So enraged was Mr Porter when he realised that three CCTV cameras were directed at his table when he sat down to eat at Osteria dell’angolo in Victoria last week, he led a mass walk-out.
Ironically, the civil liberties champion, who lives in Bayswater, was celebrating the launch of his latest spy thriller, The Dying Light, with 10 friends from the publishing world in the Marsham Street restaurant when the red mist descended.
With the black pepper yet to be ground and wine bottles uncorked, Mr Porter paid the £300 bill and marched out.
“I’m not usually one for a scene but this was a matter of principle,” he said. “I asked the manager to switch off the cameras and he refused. He said they were for the ‘safety of diners’. I’ve never heard such utter rubbish. Why should I pay to be watched? I think some of my guests were a bit embarrassed but they followed me all the same.
“I thought it was an important point to make. I am not a paranoid lunatic but this level of surveillance is authoritarian, and it’s going unchallenged.
“It’s about the relationship between the public and the state. What we are seeing is a massive transfer of power, bordering on East German levels.”
Osteria dell’angolo manager Daniel Marzotto said: “As far as I know we were told when we opened that we need CCTV. A police officer actually came in and told us. I’ve worked in lots of restaurants and it is not unusual. I think we were quite unlucky because until now nobody has complained. Now we know the gentleman has a thing about CCTV so it was just bad luck.”
Technically, the council does not insist on CCTV, although it supports pressure from the Metropolitan Police which “recommends that all businesses have CCTV because it acts as a deterrent and helps police solve minor crimes”.
Andy Ralph, licensing manager at Westminster City Council, said: “The police do normally request that licensed premises install CCTV and they have ample evidence regarding the positive role CCTV can play in tackling violence, theft and anti-social behaviour, in order to make this, on the whole, a sensible precaution.
“Where the installation of CCTV is a condition of the licence, as long as it satisfies the police’s basic requirements, how it is operated and the number of cameras installed is down to the business itself. Most people support the use of CCTV, especially if they have been a victim of crime. However, good business practice and common sense needs to dictate its use to ensure it continues to maintain public support.”
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