The Review - RESTAURANTS Published: 8 November 2007
Euan Ferguson: ‘I have always loved mashed potato and I just had a hunch this thing would work’
Pie’s the limit in mash revival
A former construction industry worker is rebuilding the image of
a British favourite in his first restaurant, writes Jamie Welham
IF you’re sick of identikit cafés selling the same unimaginative ciabatta stick solutions and long for some honest tucker, then Soho’s Mother Mash could be just the tonic.
The bustling eaterie has reworked a British classic, taking pie ’n’ mash from its humble East-End roots and transforming it into a dish beloved by Carnaby Street sophisticates and white-van men alike.
Euan Ferguson, the man behind Mother Mash, was in the building trade before becoming a restaurateur.
He says: “It was a bit daunting at first, striking out in the restaurant game which I knew almost nothing about, but I’ve always been a bit of a gambler and thought I could do with a change of scene.”
Mr Ferguson believes it’s the mash that brings the punters in.
“We used to take clients down the East End mash shops so I realised there was a taste for it,” he says.
“I myself have always loved mashed potato and I just had a hunch this thing would work. Other people have done the sausage and pie thing to death, but no one has done mash. It is such a versatile food and I know people get ridiculously passionate about it. Some like it creamy, some like it cheesy and some just throw out all the rules.”
Fears of powdered Smash and lumpy gravy can be relegated to school memories because the mix ’n’ match menu offers five types of creamy mash and rich gravy with a choice of pies and Sussex fresh sausages to satisfy even the most contrary Brit-grub foodies.
Mouth-watering gravies include failsafe onion, decadent Farmer’s – a blend of red wine, mushroom and smoked bacon – and for the traditionalists there is cockney favourite Liquor, a parsley sauce-based gravy.
The pie option will set you back £7.95 or with sausages just £6.95 and there are vegetarian options and a range of traditional puds to round things off.
Does Mr Ferguson think there is still a place for British food in our hearts and stomachs?
He says: “It used to get rubbished, but I don’t think you can beat it and there is something of a renaissance happening right now.
“There is definitely a trend for people going back to simple, comfort food done well. It’s nice because we are one great English tradition in the middle of a street that is a London institution.
“Much like what the planners have done with Carnaby Street, we just took a good English thing and gave it a 21st-century makeover.”
Gregarious service, a great booth seated ambiance and food to warm the cockles.
