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The Review - RESTAURANTS by TATIANA VON SAXE
Published 7 December 2006
 
Mulligans of Mayfair
Classy affair in the heart of Mayfair

MULLIGANS OF MAYFAIR
14 Chalk Street, W1
020 7409 1370

MULLIGANS of Mayfair is conveniently located parallel to Regent Street (Piccadilly Circus end). For those working in the area or visitors shopping and coming to see the West End Christmas lights, Mulligans is ideal for a snack or a relaxed lunch or dinner.
They serve hearty food perfect for the winter months as well as hot and cold sandwiches (£4.50-£7.90), hand-cut chips with garlic mayonnaise (£3.50) and miniature pork Londoner sausages (£4.70).
Their starters could easily double as lunch main dishes. We had the pan-fried chicken livers with smoked bacon on a potato boxty (£5.50), the Guinness Rarebit (£5.50) and the smoked salmon and leek terrine with dill sour cream and toasted soda bread (£5.25).
As a main course we chose the Irish stew (£11), the Celeriac, Jerusalem Artichoke and Mushroom Bake with a Keen’s Cheddar Sauce (£9.50) and Shepherds’ Pie with parsnip, garlic and rosemary mash (£10.50). Other specialities are Milligans Fish pie or Beef and Guinness Pie (£10.95) and oysters.
The rock oysters are brought daily from Carlingford Lough. They are served with shallot vinegar and are priced from £1.75 for one to £30 for two dozen or hot as fritters with chillie sauce.
As Mulligans is owned by the well known family-run wine Company Balls Brothers you can choose from a large variety of wines and champagnes by the glass – all of exquisite quality – the wines ranging in price from £14 to £140 per bottle. We had a glass of Champagne Vicomte d’Almon (£5.50) and two glasses of Pinot Grigio (£4.20).
They also offer three vintage champagnes by the glass such as a 1998 Dom Perignon (£29.40).
For dessert we had the Blackberry and Apple Crumble with custard (£4.50), and two of us shared the Colleney Brie, Cashel Blue and Keen’s Cheddar (£9.95), which was served with Oat Crackers and home made Chutney.
Their ground floor area with a large bar at the back has several cosy square tables of dark “distressed” wood. Near the entrance, in the middle of the room there is spiral staircase leading to a much more formal dining room and bar downstairs with sitting for 70 guests where most of the Christmas parties will be taking place.
They have two exciting three course Christmas menus or you can also order a la carte.
The lunch time menu for £30 has a choice of turkey breast and sirloin steak and the evening menu for £35 changes to roast goose and filet steak. I was amused when our affable waitress asked: “Do you want everything together or starters first?” I then knew we would have a good time in this restaurant where patrons seem relaxed and happy without the formal restrictions of many of the restaurants in this area.
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