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The Review - RESTAURANTS by TATIANA VON SAXE
Published 30 November 2006
 
Brownie points for the Roundhouse

CHEF Sean Redding ought to be congratulated as he has created some fabulous menus for the cafe in the newly refurbished Roundhouse.
A small menu for all occasions, another for Christmas, (two courses, £15; three courses £18.50) and the third one called Festive Party (£25). All menus are available for small or large parties for lunch and dinner.
The food is delicious and ingenious. Roxana, in charge of the floor the night I visited, has a sister called Tatiana and of course we instantly became good friends.
She is charming and looked after us ‘royally’, having recently been involved with Prince Charles’s visit to the Roundhouse – many of the Prince’s Trust pictures were still being exhibited on the yellow walls of the restaurant.
Chef Sean comes from Texas and is self taught but has worked for many years in several famous establishments in London. He has a unique approach to food resulting in excellent presentation and superb taste.
We chose from the a la carte menu and the Christmas one. The Crogsland Road smoked salmon was sprinkled with capers which had been fried which had given them a unique taste.
The Roast Carrot and Cumin Soup decorated with parsnip curly crisps was delicious. Both starters were served on a clear dish with two slices of toasted sourdough bread and butter leaving the tables uncluttered with the usual bread and butter dishes.
From a short but well selected wine list, we ordered two glasses of Sancerre, Dom de la Chezatte, 2005 (£5).
To follow we had the Welsh Black Angus Sirloin Steak with Sage and Chestnut Butter and hand-cut chips and the Grilled Orange and Cranberry Pork with roast potato, parsnip and peas.
Again excellent presentation and both delicious. Highly recommended: Chiroubles Les Farges Dom. Emile Cheysson 200x (£20). Clever idea to have the ‘x’ which allows changes in the vintage. Ours was a 2005. For dessert we had Warm Spiced Cranberry and Gin Compote on toasted panettone with Cinnamon Ice Cream and the Roundhouse Chocolate Brownie made with gin-steeped cranberries served with chocolate sauce and vanilla ice cream and a small glass of the cranberry gin on the side £5.50 (you can have a second brownie for £2).
Chef Sean prepares the gin-steeped cranberries in attractive bottles placed throughout the room. The Roundhouse Café – with striking full length windows overlooking busy Chalk Farm Road – is located in the new wing of the Roundhouse, a Grade II listed building which reopened in June following a £30 million redevelopment. The theatre is impressive, like a small Albert Hall, with all its original features restored.

Roundhouse Café
Chalk Farm Road, NW1
0870 389 9920
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