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The Review - RESTAURANTS with TATIANA VON SAXE
 
Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill
Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill

Seafood you’ll want to eat

MANY years ago Bentley’s Oyster Bar started life in Swallow Street – the winding road that links Piccadilly and Regent Street.
It has now been refurbished with a new modern interior design décor in black/white for the downstairs area and blue/beige with blue leather banquettes for the upper part.
The back-to-back bars on the ground floor are now modern with attractive glass shelves with shiny glasses and red leather stools. This has resulted in a new image for Bentley’s exciting past creating a modern environment whilst maintaining the excellent quality of its cuisine.
Gone are the chintz curtains and floral carpets but the menu still has the old favourites such as the grilled Dover Sole, Bentley’s Fish Pie, a variety of the highest quality oysters – Sheetrock Island, Reach Cove and Rocks from £9 for six and the Oyster Stout Rarebit (£7.50).
The new additions include Pickled Herrings, potato and apple salad (£7.50), Stuffed Squid with Chorizo and Feta (£9.95), the Thai Crab and Mussel Soup (£6.75) and the Lobster Linguine with Tomato and Basil (£16).
The regulars like to sit at the bar. Very English. White napkins folded over a rail positioned below the bar. Small square tables have replaced the booths and the old-fashioned bar tables are now round and black.
I was able to sit at my favourite place: a small table (No 40) just opposite the end of the bar next to an ample window overlooking Swallow Street.
On the ledge now sits a very large ceramic penguin which looked over the shoulder of my lunch guest. We both had Bentley’s speciality: The perfectly trimmed Dover Sole Meuniere (22oz. £33) with a delicious sauce of capers and lemon.
It came accompanied by new potatoes and summer green vegetables which were tasty but should have had their strings removed.
The steamed lettuce was very good. For dessert I recommend the Brown Sugar Meringue with Strawberries (£6).
We were happy with our choice of one their house wines: the Manent Sauvignon from Chile at £4.45 the glass.
The old-fashioned staircase, with large coat of arms paintings hung on the walls, leads to the first floor.
Two separate rooms provide additional seating with a more formal dining area. Instead of the strictly seafood selection offered at the bar downstairs, the a la carte menu includes these as well as meat and poultry.
An ultra-modern kitchen which provides service for the upstairs area is on view at this level.
There is a lavishly decorated square room with a round table for private parties sitting up to 14 people. Twelve-and-a-half per cent service charge was added to the bill and the credit card receipt had been closed. Superb service – both attentive and very professional.

Bentley’s Oyster Bar and Grill
11-15 Swallow Street, W1
020 7734 4756

 
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