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Review > Food and Drink > Tatiana Von Saxe
 

An excellent restaurant lies behind the frosted windows

Ooh, Sheekey!

THIS is a destination restaurant. Unless you know it is there you can easily pass it by as nothing gives away that an excellent restaurant is behind the frosted windows and smart entrance with a doorman in top hat. It is advisable to reserve as they have three sittings in the evenings. Pre, during and after theatre.
Tourists have discovered it and so patrons of different nationalities, specially American, were there in force. Also do make note of the phone number as they are difficult to find because they are listed under J when everyone knows them as Sheekey’s.
St Martin’s Court is a small street between St Martin’s Lane and Charing Cross Road and the link between many theatres in the area. True to their reputation, Sheekey’s specialise in fish although their menu mentions that ‘meat dishes are also available’.
If you like Jellied Eels (£6.50) this is the starter for you. Elegantly presented in a small bowl with malt vinegar Peter pronounced them ‘beautiful’. Much more sophisticated than the ones found in stalls usually outside or near pubs. I had the dress crab out of the shell (£14.50) served with thin toast. It was excellent.
As usual, we sampled their house wine: The Cotaux de Peyriac Blanc 2005 Domaine Massmier La Mignarde at £15 was dry and chilled at the right temperature. Our bottle shared a bucket with a Puligny-Montrachet 1er Cru ‘Les Perrieres’ 2001 Domaine Louis Carillon which I had spotted on the menu at £80.
We resisted their famous Fish Pie (£10.75) and ordered instead the Grilled Monkfish and Tiger Prawns with Sardinian cous cous and a spicy tomato sauce (£18.75) and the smoked haddock which was served with a fried egg, very crispy bacon and horseradish potatoes (£15). The combination was delicious.
For dessert the Pavlova with raspberries (£6.50) was great as was the Spotted Dick with butter and golden syrup (£5.50) which brought back school memories.
When Sheekey’s was acquired by the owners of The Ivy, the restaurant was refurbished. This included reframing the many photographs of famous actors and performers which line the walls above the comfortable banquettes.
You feel as if you are dining in the company Charlie Chaplin, John Gielgud and Ingrid Bergman.
Some photos date from the 1940s and so if you do not recognise someone and the waiters do not know a name, they have a list which they can refer to.
Our bill for £85.75 included a £4 cover charge – I do not agree with cover charges. Service was not included and so a generous one was in order as the service had been courteous and of the highest calibre.

J Sheekey
28-32 St Martin's Court, WC2
020 7240 2565

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