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Michael Broadbent |
Putting words to wine
Drinking wine is one thing, but trying to describe it is another
WHILE fields such as film, theatre and book reviewing have their own critics, wine is unusual. There are wine writers, but real people don’t talk like that. And, if you ask most people to describe a wine they’ve just drunk, you’re likely to get an embarrassed silence or, worse still, provoke accusations of wine snobbery.
It’s time we looked at the language of wine. One way to do this is to compare different writers on the same wines. In the box you’ll find three 2000 Bordeaux reds described by two of the world’s leading wine writers, the American Robert Parker and the Englishman Michael Broadbent.
You will need to judge for yourself whether the verdicts are the same. Setting this aside, what can we say? Parker’s language is more extravagant and Broadbent is more restrained.
Broadbent’s approach is more concise, prosaic and, on occasions – such as his reference to Earl Grey tea – slightly idiosyncratic. It would be interesting to ask a group of bright sixth-formers to analyse these descriptions. The biggest difference is that Parker brings a distinct view to the tasting, whereas Broadbent tries to stand back from his own opinion and describe the wine as it is.
Even if it is not among his personal favourites, the reader gets a precise description of the wine’s character. Not easy tasks given the difficulty of describing tastes other than by analogy.
When we describe wine, we combine at least two senses, smell and taste. Also, it is often compared to something else – strawberries, apples, tobacco or even the smell of cat’s urine – a more common odour than might be thought. The language of wine is complicated, firstly by residual snobbery and class-consciousness and secondly, by the intrusion of commercial interests. Significantly, Parker gives his wines a precise numerical value reflecting the American school system. Broadbent’s system is simpler, up to five stars. Broadbent’s value is that he is less affected by the market in his judgements.
Parker’s marks, on the other hand, directly influence prices and have changed the way Bordeaux is made. They are of interest to producers in setting prices, but less helpful to wine drinkers.
The task of tasting wine may seem too difficult or even irrelevant. If you enjoy it, even if you’re not keen on linguistic gymnastics, it can be worth rising to the occasion.
Take Broadbent on the 1995 Romanée-St-Vivant: “a most attractive wine … Maturing nicely; loose-knit, yet fragrant nose which, after an hour, yawned, stretched its legs, and exuded a slight whiff of strawberries; pleasing sweetness, good flesh; delicious flavour and charm.” This evokes an image that does justice to the skill and care that went into the product. A perfect match of language and wine.
* Bordeaux: A consumer guide to the world’s finest wines by Robert Parker. Published by Dorling Kindsersley, £25.
* Michael Broadbent’s Vintage Wine published by Little Brown & Christies, £30.
Parker V Broadbent
CHATEAU KIRWAN (MARGAUX)
Parker: Probably the finest Kirwan I have ever tasted … a black/purple color and a sweet, chewy concentrated style with superb intensity, ripeness and length. (90+)
Broadbent: Virtually opaque, rich, chocolatey, a touch of coarseness on the palate, plenty of new oak. Is it still Margaux though? (****)
CHATEAU CANTEMERLE (HAUT-MEDOC)
Parker: A dark ruby/purple color is followed by sweet cranberry, mulberry, and cherry fruit aromas … reveals excellent ripeness on the attack, a lush, low-acid, medium-bodied personality, and moderate tannin. (88)
Broadbent: A whiff of tea (not Earl Grey), sweet, rich on nose and palate, chewey fruit, easy style. (***)
BRANE-CANTENAC (HAUT-MEDOC)
Parker: The greatest … in the post-WWII era. Its dense ruby/purple color is accompanied by spectacular aromas of graphite, blackcurrants, tobacco, earth, and an intriguing floral note. This stunning aromatic display is followed by a rich, opulent, secondary medium-bodied wine with great concentration as well as fabulous purity. (92)
Broadbent: Medium deep; good flavour and length. (****)
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